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    GM36 with 2 cabs?

    glennsteen06
    glennsteen06


    Posts : 14
    Join date : 2016-03-07

    GM36 with 2 cabs? Empty GM36 with 2 cabs?

    Post by glennsteen06 Fri Mar 11, 2016 2:55 am

    Is it possible to use the Grandmeister with 36 with two cabs? Saw some pics were people had two 112 cabs with the amp. Seems strange when theres only one jack in the back for it
    gravydb
    gravydb


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    Location : PA

    GM36 with 2 cabs? Empty Re: GM36 with 2 cabs?

    Post by gravydb Fri Mar 11, 2016 7:32 am

    The cabs are daisy chained - they have an "in" jack and an "out" jack, to pass the signal through to the next cab. As long as you're aware of the ohms load, it's fine.

    Here's a pic of the TM112 jack plate:
    GM36 with 2 cabs? TM112_Cabinet_Rear_Pannel_600x600_zpshvh0bjrn

    Not all cabs have that feature, IE my H&K CC212 only has "in" jacks - 1 @ 8ohms mono; 2 @ 16 ohms stereo. No 'out' or 'thru' jacks.
    glennsteen06
    glennsteen06


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    Post by glennsteen06 Fri Mar 11, 2016 4:03 pm

    Thanks for the answer!

    I was thinking of maybe having 2 of the H&K 1x12 cabs so i can have one at home and one at rehearsal and then use both when playing live.
    Tried to look at other cabs with that feature but couldn't find any other cabs :/

    So maybe i'll have to go for the 2x12 instead
    bordonbert
    bordonbert


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    Post by bordonbert Fri Mar 11, 2016 10:42 pm

    Or you could just do this!

    GM36 with 2 cabs? <a href=GM36 with 2 cabs? Parall10" />

    There's nothing exotic about it.  The bottom plug is to the amp, the middle plug is to the top 1x12" and the top plug is for the bottom 1x12".  The top two are just wired in parallel inside the middle plug to suit my current 2x12" 15R Greenbacks.  I have one I used to use wired in series as well for 2x12" 8R V30s.  You could even make it work for a single cabinet too when that is all you needed by just slipping something insulating over the unused tip, say a null jack socket, one which has the terminals snipped off and is insulated around itself.  That way it's just pop on, pull off.


    (EDIT: Should have pointed out that I meant you should use one of the plastic bodied type jack sockets for that last bit!)


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    stargazer747
    stargazer747


    Posts : 50
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    Age : 59
    Location : Staten Island, NY USA

    GM36 with 2 cabs? Empty YES 2 Cabs with H&K GM 36

    Post by stargazer747 Fri Mar 25, 2016 8:20 am

    Before purchasing this amp I was always used to amps that had 2 speaker outputs in the rear so you can have 2 cabinets regardless of speaker configurations, 1x12", 2x12', or 4x12". So when I decided I wanted it and not wanting to trade my EVH 5150 III white & Blackstar HT Venue cabinets, both with Celestions in for a single 2x12" or one with a parallel output thru to the other (I like my little black & white amp "stack"), I looked around online and spoke with sound experts at various musical instrument stores and they all recommended the Palmer PCABM box cabinet merger. Its a tiny little all metal device with outputs for 2 cabinets and 2 inputs to choose from Serial or Parallel (only 1 can be used) depending on which will result in the total impedance of Ohms at the cabinets. So I found and ordered one on ebay, they are less that $50, and yes it does what it claims. I find using my 2 cabinets on this amp makes the tone warmer, more full, and even clearer. For those of you that would like to have the same setup do a google search for Palmer PCABM Cabinet Merger, check it out...
    bordonbert
    bordonbert


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    Post by bordonbert Fri Mar 25, 2016 10:11 am

    Oh dear, sorry to be the bearer of bad news but I wish you had got back in touch with us before you bought that.  It's nothing more than a little tin box with 4 jack sockets and a few inches of hookup wire setup according to a very simple wiring diagram inside!  And they charged you best part of $50 for that?  I'm going into production, there's gold in them thar hills!  Shocked

    The problem is that you described them as "sound experts at various musical instrument stores".  I know it is natural to see them as that but they are usually anything but sound experts, they have a very different job to do and it relies on different knowledge.  You are putting too much faith in people who are for the most part salesmen and occasional techs.  Remember, they are employed there solely to help the store make its money by selling you equipment and their advice cannot be guaranteed to be impartial.  Sure they may know their range of gear, or they may know what problems commonly occur with what models of gear and how to fix them, but at the end of the day they want to put money into their till and there is a plethora of musical gear out there which is designed to do that at very low cost to them.  When was the last time you came across a salesman recommending something that he doesn't stock and can't get, as better for your purposes than the range he does stock, effectively sending you somewhere else to buy something?

    Never mind, spilt milk and all that and it won't break the bank, but it really is best to take the advice you get on this sort of stuff from those "sound experts" with a pinch of salt until you have it confirmed by someone independent who doesn't stand to gain from your buying the shiny googaw.  And it has to be said, I take an old fashion view that your $40 over the top is better in your pocket than theirs while today's view is usually that, "it's only 50 bucks so what the heck!"  $50 is $50 but it could be said it's me that's out of step.

    Incidentally, I have two of the cables I posted below, (Edit: errm, I meant above of course).  One is wired for series and the other for parallel, 6 solder joints each.  Total cost for the two with good quality oversize plugs specifically made for speakers, less than $10.  Additional contacts added, none.


    Last edited by bordonbert on Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:02 am; edited 1 time in total


    _________________
    Newcastle Brown, can sure smack you down
    You take a greasy wh*re, and a rollin' dance floor
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    bordonbert
    bordonbert


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    Post by bordonbert Fri Mar 25, 2016 10:59 am

    Just for future reference, here is a quick and dirty method of doing it.  The Input Series and Parallel sockets need to be switched on both the signal and ground lines which isn't too unusual but the output speaker sockets need no switching at all.

    GM36 with 2 cabs? Series10

    Remember if you trace that through that when one of the Series or Parallel input sockets has a jack in it its switches are both open!  And just as the bought unit, they MUST NOT be used at the same time.  Sorry I don't have a clearer symbol for the input sockets but I'm sure you'll get the picture.  If you can't get a double switched mono socket then just use a stereo one and use the ring for the ground sleeve connection, it's exactly the same when a mono plug is inserted. Neutrik have both types in their range as have Rean.  It may even be possible to optimise this to make it more efficient but at least this way should work.

    (Still think it's simpler to just have a dedicated lead.  Wink )


    _________________
    Newcastle Brown, can sure smack you down
    You take a greasy wh*re, and a rollin' dance floor
    You know you're jailhouse bound!

    Rock On Humble Pie

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