WMI-1 WIRELESS MIDI INTERFACE

Does anyone know when this is in the shops? On the YouTube vids from Namm it said June.

I also read the June date for these, I've hunted everywhere to no avail. I absolutely want one asap but like yourself, it's a case of waiting and watching.

It seems to be for sale on Thomann's online site. Bit expensive though......

Maybe it's because I work in computers that I have an inbuilt dislike of wireless! Give me a solid, simple, cheap, reliable but easily replaced cable any day. It's a brand new bevy of things to go wrong I'm afraid.

I'll wait and watch and hope you all get into it painlessly. (Then maybe when it's much cheaper and proven to be problem free.... )

Signed:  The Doommeister!

I'm thinking about buying the WMI-1 when it's available, but I have a question. I currently run a T.C. Electronics G-Major in the FX loop of my Grandmeister, and send MIDI program changes from my Grandmeister to the G-Major via the Grandmeister's MIDI OUT. It looks like the 2 MIDI cables coming out of the WMI-I connect to the Grandmeister's MIDI IN and OUT/THRU ports, and the single input port on the WMI-I is a MIDI IN. So, do I need to buy a MIDI splitter box of some sort to get back access to the Grandmeister's MIDI OUT port?

This is a confusing area for those of us who are not MIDIfied already SweetPete.  I've asked H&K via FB about plain old wiring up using the FSM432-3 and a tablet, and which interfaces will do the job for Android.  I'm still mystified!  The video I was pointed at doesn't actually show anything about connectivity.  Now like all things, this will be obvious but, as always, that's once you are in the know!

My impression was that it went Tablet ->(USB)-> MIDI Interface ->(MIDI x 2)-> Footswitch and Amp.  But the video shows that, on top of that, there is definitely a cable going from the Footswitch to the back of the amp.  H&K also confirms that the footswitch remains phantom powered so it must be connected to the amp via its 7pin lead.  A couple of simple wiring diagrams would surely help to sort out this whole area.

My impression of your wireless WMI-1 was that it sat between the GM36 and the FSM432 effectively in the middle of all three.  It passed through all signalling between the three devices, as well as phantom power from the amp to the footswitch so the whole shooting match is powered from the amp.  The tablet/PC/laptop/mobile then located it as a new network just as it would any other wireless net and set up an exclusive link between the two.  This then left the control device totally independently mobile.

Your T.C.E. G-Major seems another layer of complexity though and I can't really get my head around what you are doing with it MIDIwise.  Are you saying it currently responds to the same messages that the basic amp does from the app, based on the settings of the amp, or does it have a separate MIDI channel and respond to a different message set from a different app?  Sorry if I'm being dumb here but MIDI is all very new to me.

Hey Bordenbert,

I'm currently using my iPad with the GrandMeister.  Works perfect.  I had to purchase a Line6 Midi Mobilizer II to get all the required connections.  I just want to dispense with as much cabling as possible, so the WMI-1 looks like a great solution, which will (obviously) allow me to connect wirelessly to the GrandMeister with my iPad, and allow me to get rid of the Line6 device.

I use my G-Major as my FX processor.  I've programmed it so that when I change channels on my GrandMeister via with the FSM-432 footswitch, it also changes to the appropriate patch on the G-Major.  Nothing special going on here.  The MIDI OUT/THRU of the GrandMeister is connected to the MIDI IN of the G-Major, and of course the G-Major is connected to the GrandMeister's FX IN/OUT loop.  The Grandmeister sends a MIDI signal to the G-Major, and I get my programmed FX from the G-Major for the respective channel on the GrandMeister.

It appears that the WMI-I plugs into both the MIDI IN and MIDI OUT/THRU of the GrandMeister, which means I've just lost my connection to the G-Major.  That single MIDI input on the other end of the WMI-I appears to be a MIDI IN, not MIDI OUT/THRU.  I think I'm going to need one of these to get back a MIDI OUT/THRU port:

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MIDIthru2

Hope that all makes sense!

Forgot to mention, just ordered the WMI-1 from SweetWater.com and the MIDI Thru box.

What you say is obvious - - once you've said it.  I would never have come up with the idea of putting the patches for both amp and processor into the same slots on each so they get called up by the same request messages on the same channel!  That's very neat!

I can understand the need to cut back on the cabling.  I'm a bit lazy like that and just make myself up a snake with generic webbed finger trap tubing based on current needs but it does get a little bulky. It just seems to me that the WMI-1 is outrageously overpriced for what it is though I could be naive like that of course!  And I hate paying just for a name or to be a member of an exclusive owner's club. I'm sure it is a good device but at £120 I'm not sure it's such a good buy.  Yet!  There will surely be other more generic units which come out which will be able to do this, it's only midi mated with a wireless network after all and they're both old technology.

For example a quick search turned up the Quicco MI.1 which seems a very neat device and says it creates a wireless network between device and iPhone/iPad.  At around $45 from Amazon.

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Is that not a useful starting point? (Or do I get my woodworking tools out again and try to botch another homer? )

Well, that's an interesting product!  I didn't even know it existed!  But just looking at the pic, there's no where to connect the FSM-432 foot controller.  I can't find the owner's manual for the WMI-i on the H&K website, but I'm assuming the single MIDI input on the end of the WMI-I is for the FSM-432.  Too bad the FSM-432 itself isn't a wireless (WIFI/BlueTooth) device  But then you would need to connect it to a power supply, thus trading one MIDI cable for a power cable

And yeah, I think the WMI-1 is overpriced for what it is. But H&K obviously had development costs associated with creating it, and they're not going to be selling millions of them, so they have to recoup their cost.

Nearly bought one of these today, they have one listed on Amazon. Having pretty much completed the transaction I double checked my intent and decided that I don't particularly want an I pad as I don't generally buy in to the whole apple bullshit scenario. I couldn't find anywhere which suggested it will 100% work with an android device, of which we have four tablets kicking around the place. Hence I'll hang fire and see how others get on with it when there is a lot more experience of this device available to draw upon around the net.

I'll manage with the footswitch which to be fair looks a lot more bang for the bucks. On the plus side I ordered a US thinline Telecaster to fill that, I'm buying something today craving lol. Got to wait until early next month for that though, as the one I really like has to be shipped from the US as the finish I want is a bit scarce in the UK.

Obviously I'll keep checking here to see when someone gets the wi-fi unit, and has it up and running. However if the apple route is required I'll not bother.

I don't particularly want an I pad as I don't generally buy in to the whole apple bullshit scenario.

You and me both Phrasier!  I'm working through the Android route now.  I've managed to install the GM36 software on a Nexus but I also have a Chimp, (don't ask!), with Android 4.4.2 and USB Host, which doesn't seem to want to play ball.  I've sidelined it on there, (installed the .apk file from a different source than the online slave markets), but it won't run.

I've just received a cheap MIDI interface and the requisite OTG cable today and I'm just about to play with it to see what happens.  I'll make sure to let you know.  (Of course by now you KNOW I will!)

Bordonbert, I have no doubt you'll get it up and flying. To be honest I don't know if I need to be tinkering with a tablet once I have the amp's presets dialed in. It was one of those Mmm, I fancy that idea a little, right up to the point of realising what I already knew. Using my foot to control the amp while playing is far more convenient. I have a pile of gear and the idea of the GM36 was to dial in a whole load of presets for my regular guitars and just take the amp, a cabinet, the footswitch and last but not least, a couple of guitars if playing out.

I have some quite tasty rack effect units in the studio I can use via FX loop, and having owned the amp a couple of months, I've pretty much concluded that the amp will do anything I need aside from some specialised weirdness that I'm not really interested in unless I'm recording at home. In which case I have access to some top notch synths and a hybrid piano all coupled via midi to a whole load of other rack effects and so on with which I can get anything I want sound-wise.

It's possible with this amp to keep it simple, that was my initial aim, I got distracted.....

I'm in two minds here.  The pragmatic practical part of me agrees with you, Phrasemaker.  The amp is immensely workable with just the footswitch.  Anything you want to do can be done manually with a couple of exceptions.

I still find the idea of setting the power soak by stored setting curious.  If I'm honest that could include anything which sets the volume levels rather than the tone.  So basically, for each voice I set up, I have to have a version for each different power soak level to accommodate different venues.  A voice played at home practicing does not want to have the 36W setting I might prefer in a reasonably sized hall.  Otherwise the only alternative is to skip back and adjust the Master Volume every time I select a voice.  I can't help thinking that there should be more flexibility in whether the power soak is engaged as part of the voice setting or left in manual mode, perhaps even from a separate footswitch like the TM36!  (I miss my TM36 individual footswitches).  It isn't even the case that you can manually override it as, in a song where you would use more than one voice, the original inappropriate power soak settings are restored every time you change.

On the other hand the idea of editing a collection of voices, exploring others people have posted by direct importing, incorporating them onscreen if they are useful, then uploading the edited collection to the amp in seconds is very tempting.  I think its ability as a management tool may outweigh its ability to help in a live situation.

Apart from that I'm a dedicated fiddler!

I'm sure you'll get on top of it all Bordonbert, I am no slouch when it comes to technology, but balancing my own musical projects, sound engineering for a big band, various recording and production tasks plus music tuition, and a bit of session work, phew, I would like to just plug and play my amp as it actually does all I need effortlessly. If I get a dull moment, I'll perhaps delve a little more.

Besides, you'll have it all licked by then and I can simply read your posts

So, in a moment of weakness I splurged on a WMI-1. My only trouble is configuration.
For those that dont know, two modes are available: stand alone AP and Home Network Client.

In stand alone access point mode, this thing is pretty slick! Works like a champ and enabled me to get rid of the 3' tether I had with my iRig setup.

The problem is that I want to use it in home network client mode which would allow me to maintain an internet connection while simultaneously controlling the amp. The manual suggests using the quick setup for this by depressing the WPS button on your router. Sadly my router has none as it utilizes hardwired Ubiquiti access points to insure a good signal throughout my home. To make matters worse, the included manual merely points to the H&K website for more info. I went online and downloaded what I could find only to learn it merely says to look at your router settings. They even fail to tell you to connect to the WMI-1 using access point mode FIND and access the screens where changes/settings can be made. Don't ask how long it took me to even figure that much out.

I'm not a computer network guy and I know just enough to be dangerous. I've entered my network and password. I gave the WMI-1 an IP address within my current router address and turned off DHCP and I can't seem to get it to connect in this mode so I'm clearly doing something wrong.

I'll post the settings screen in a moment in hopes one of you gents who is knowledgable in these things might be able to lend a hand.

So this is what I see. Might any of you networking fellows be able to shed some light?
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I "hate" networking.  Stick with software!  There is logic in them there hills...

So you set up 192.168.104.130 as a static IP in the router - correct?  And made sure not to allow DHCP to creep into its path?  Gave DHCP a range of IP's to work with excluding your IP?

What about the setting that you perform in routers when you are connecting an XBox/Playstation to it? It's been a while on that one. Google it. Some kind of Plug and play feature may need to be turned on...

Which router do you have?

I didn't set up the 192.168.104.130 as a static address within the router. Rather I assigned the WMI 192.168.104.130 because it falls within the range used by my router's DHCP server.

I decided to check router settings, but for some reason I'm having a difficult time logging into my router. Interestingly I can ping both the router and the WMI. I'll continue posting as I learn more. Hopefully I'll get this sorted and it can become a resource for other WMI-1 users.

Brief update, something else on my network must have the address I assigned to the WMI. On a whim I changed it, then tried to ping it. Got nothing. Still working on it. Would much rather be playing.

Thinking I needed a direct Cat5e connection, I dragging out the old dinosaur XP based laptop and connected directly to my router. Thinking about Hwy's comment, I assigned a static IP to the WMI-1. I then setup the WMI with said IP. I also realized that I had not provided a gateway address so I entered my router's default address on the WMI-1 configuration screen. I can now say, it still doesn't work! LOL Obviously I'm doing something wrong...

Yup. I'm at a loss as to what to do. Time to email Hughes and Kettner.

It probable does not need to have the gateway set since you are never going outside of your LAN with the WMI-1.

You will need to get into your router and look around at all of the settings. Routers always intimidate me. It's not just you. Then... if you tweak something wrong in the there then you can screwed! Maybe back up the router. I have a consultant do my networking for me.

Ipv6 instead of Ipv4 enabled in the router?

Like I said: Networking blows!

My guess would be that you need to go into the router and tell it to hold that IP address from use and always assign it to the WM1.  I don't see that you should need DHCP turned off, just have both ends, router and WMI-1, aware that that IP address is held only for use by the WMI-1.  It makes sense to choose it as the upper address of your DHCP IP address range so it would not often be selected anyway.

Try pinging that IP address with the WMI-1 off so you can see if there is anything else there using it.  You should also be able to see connected devices in your router setup and the IPs already in use will be visible there too.

I have to work with them to a degree though I'm not a network guy, and you're right, networks are so close to being wonderful.  They're only a couple of inches above the Canine's Cohones. But that couple of inches makes all of the difference!!!


EDIT: Here's a pic of what I see in my router settings for my main PC:

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You can see I've entered an IP address and told it to make that Static, and that's with DHCP on for other devices.  It's often less problematic to make static IP addresses for any slightly odd devices.

HwyStar wrote: Ipv6 instead of Ipv4 enabled in the router?

Like I said: Networking blows!

Ipv6 isn't enabled....Networking does indeed blow!!