by bordonbert Tue Jan 31, 2017 10:38 pm
Great find! Here is one from the UK I came up with -
DesignACable.com 7-5pin. A couple of points:
It's very expensive for what it is. A 6m 5-5pin MIDI cable from Kenable is - - - £1.52 under ($2) and they produce good quality totally reliable cables. Now granted that is not the specialist 7-5pin that you need in this case so it should be a bit more, but there is no reason to charge $31.33 for the same thing.
Van Damme cable? Absolutely not necessary in any Universe, it makes no improvement to the cable in any way over any other sturdy cable. There is no music signal carried here only MIDI commands and they plain don't care, it has absolutely no influence on the quality of sound nor does it make signal transfer any more reliable at this length.
It's a pity more guitarists don't solder, it saves a fortune and allows you to get up any odd specialist stuff like this that you need very quickly. For $2 for a standard cable and a new 7pin plug you could cut the 5pin off one end and replace it with the 7pin in about 5 minutes. But that's all beating my gums in the wind if you don't solder of course.
What is the pinout of the new cable? As it works I assume it connects pins 6/7 at the amp, (the two with the gap between them), to pins 1/3, (the outer two on the ends of the pin line).
Now to the real question. How did you get round the power supply restrictions? Are you really feeding your Moose at +22V from the TM? That may work but keep an eye on the Moose case for hot spots as that is out of spec, Moose specify 9-15V as I said. Inside you have a voltage regulator to drop the supplied voltage down to the correct level for the insides to work. It may work at +22V in but it has to dissipate all of that overvoltage as heat so you are making it work much hotter than it has been designed to do! These usually are able to dissipate about 0.25W without heatsinking but above that by much a heatsink would definitely be needed.
If you are taking 100mA then the 10R inside the TM will drop it down to +21V. Let's assume it needs 5V for its electronics which is common. At 9V feed your internal regulator is dropping 4V @ 100mA which is 400mW, while at 15V feed it is 1W so we can assume they will have put some sort of heatsinking in place. Then we go out of spec. At 21V feed it's climbed to 1.6W. If the regulator is not heatsinked to cope with that amount of heat then it will shut down. If you experience periods where it stops functioning then it comes back to life that could be what is happening.
I'm glad you got it up and running, it's a shame it was so expensive but that's less of an issue, but I would urge you to keep an eye on things. If you should develop a problem and the regulator burns out the Moose manufacturers will be able to spot a unit which has blown because of overvoltage. If they do, it is definitely a case for - warranty voided!