tubemeister 36 with footswitch FS3 Midi 5 pin

Hello from Italy. I have a little question ( Sorry for my English).
1) Can i use U&K Footswitch FS3 (Midi 5 pin) with Tubemeister 36 Midi connection ?
2) if not possible, can i change connection of Footswitch FS3 with Jack 1/4 for 3 channel footswitch imput

thank you in advance.

Luigi

Ciao Luigi, good to see you here.

I used to have a TM36 many years ago so I know the amp but my knowledge is a bit rusty after this time.  However, there is some stuff I can recall.  No, you cannot control the MIDI side of the TM36 with the FS3 footswitch.  You need a dedicated MIDI controller to access that side.  The FS3 has 3 switches with a single cable terminated with a 5 pin DIN socket.  That is no good to you at all as it stands.  It is intended for use with the Tube 50, Tube 100 , Attax 100 and 200 amps.

I used to use the TM36 with a FS2 type footswitch for Channel Selection.  This has only two switches and a single cable terminated with a TRS Stereo jack.  The first of the switches swapped between "Clean" <-> "Crunch or Lead".  The second then selected between the "Crunch" <-> "Lead" when they were enabled with the first.  It sounds complex but was very easy to use in practice.  Here is the type I mean: H&K FS2 Footswitch Any footswitch of this type will do that job. This should actually be very easy to wire up from your FS3 if you know how to solder but you would probably lose the use of the third switch and you would need a second single switch FS1 type footswitch to control the Effects as the wiring from the single cable could get fiddly and delicate.  If you do not do soldering then you are a little stumped I am afraid.

The alternative is to get your hands on a H&K FSM432 footswitch, (not the cheapest things in the world), or to get another suitable MIDI controller which should be cheaper.  I am sure there will be many members here who can advise you on what models are available much better than I can.  That is an area I am not very experienced in I am afraid.  I know the technical details of how they do what they do but not much of what models are available.

Thank You sir bordonbert

i'm a little good solder ... now the question is .. i have FS3 for my past old amps H&K ( broken) and now i have tubemeister 36.. the wire of footswitch are 4 ( white, red, green, wellow ) and i'm try to understand for connect 4 wire of FS3 cable it in the 1/4 Jack stereo with 3 connection TIP/RING/SLEVE ... there is one cable to many

The reason there are four wires in the cable is that you need three for the signal lines for each switch and you need a common ground for them all to switch to.  Each switch is simply shorting its signal wire to that ground to activate the functions inside the amp.

Here is a simple diagram of what you need to do to use the FS3 to control both your Channel Select and your Effects Loop.  The Channel Select is on the TRS Stereo jack and the Effects is on the TS Mono jack.  You will have to look inside the FS3 to see which wire is connected to which switch.  The LEDs are simply connected in series with each wire and switch.  There are two possible ways to wire this up.

a)  Either each wire comes in, connects to the switch terminal, the other switch terminal connects to the LED anode (that is the longer leg), and the LED cathode connects to the ground wire.

b)  Or you could have each wire comes in, connects to the LED anode (that is the longer leg), the LED cathode connects to the switch terminal, the other switch terminal connects to the ground.

This will be very delicate and vulnerable once you have done it as you will have to break out the interior wires of the cable which are very thin to connect them to each plug. You may prefer to connect new short lengths of cable tail on the end of the main cable to feed to each plug.

Thak you ...dear
So let me know if ok my CONNECTION scheme

That looks fine though I won't be able to see that the LEDs are the correct way round of course, you will have to make sure of that. Make sure that the anodes are on the leg closest to the amp. They should be a little longer than the cathodes unless they have been snipped short. If that is not clear just Google "LED legs polarity" and you should find pictures which will demonstrate. In your case as we can see in your picture, the red white and blue wires should connect to the anodes. The cathodes should connect direct to the switch.